harley davidson Classic what is the minimum octane that you can put in a 1999 harley davidson ultra classic?
My answer to a similar question.........
You CAN run 87...minimum recommended is 89...but BEST is 91 or 92. Gas is NOT ..THAT expensive for 5 gallons...run PREMIUM for best performance....ALWAYS!!!
EDIT: being an Ultra, I ASSUME it's injected.....PREMIUM gas has added detergents that cheap gas simply doesn't have that helps keep the injectors clean and open. Being an Ultra, it will run hotter than the other models from HD, the higher octane will help in pre-ignition and detonation under high heat conditions.
Like I said above, you CAN get away with 89, but even HD tells you in the OWNERS MANUAL to run a minimum of 91........read the bottom of the page on this link.......
HERE IS SOME INFO ON OCTANE.........
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
TRUE octane booster is no longer available....thanks to the EPA. If it is, I haven't seen it in over 15 years, I would not know where to find it.
There are, however other boosters on the market that "increase your octane". To use it, just following the mixing instructions on the container.
Octane controls the compressability of gas.
The higher the compression ratio of an engine is, the higher it's fuel's octane rating must be. Let's say an engine with 8.5:1 compression requires an octane rating of 89, if you run 87, it may pre-ignite causing pinging. You can run 92 octane with no harm at all, but it would be a waste of money, because the compression is low enough to run on 89. If you have an engine with 10.5:1 compression, you need a minimum octane of 92, anything lower would cause it to pre-ignite and ping.
If you are experiencing pinging running the vehicle manufacturers specified octane rating, you most likely have an intake and/or exhaust leaking, incorrectly jetted carb or incorrect fuel injection settings incorrect ignition timing.
A very common misconception that can be proven on the dyno, is people running aviation fuel in their cars for the added octane, this is actually detremental to your engine, there are additives in av-gas that can corrode an automotive fuel system and the viscosity of av-gas is different than that of auto fuel...it is designed for higher altitudes.
Another misconception is people running high octane racing fuel in their normal cars, they THINK it's the octane that SLIGHTLY helps their performance...it's not, it other additives in the gas that provide at quicker, hotter, more powerful burn, causing higher combustion pressure than standard gasoline, but this can also damage a normal engine due to the extreme heat racing fuel creates.
Rating gasoline
Gasoline is primarily a mixture of two volatile liquids, heptane and isooctane. Pure heptane, a lighter fuel, burns so quickly that it produces a great amount of knocking in an engine. Pure isooctane evaporates slowly and produces virtually no knocking. The ratio of heptane to isooctane is measured by the octane rating. The greater the percentage of isooctane, the less knocking and the higher the octane rating. For example, an octane rating of 87 is comparable to a mixture of 87% isooctane and 13% heptane.
EDIT!!!!!!:
SLIMCOLO........are you smokin' CRACK or what???
110 octane????.......that's is RACING FUEL!!!!........
and........
89 is PREMIUM???????......WHAT???????
89 is MID-grade........91-94 is PREMIUM!!!!!!.......
Where do you live that 85 is regular and 89 is premium.....
if your owners manual manual says to run 110 octane in your bagger..........that manual and you must be from Seinfeld's Bizzaro World.......the HD Owners' Manual CLEARLY states to run 91 octane........once again......110 is racing fuel.
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2007 HARLEY DAVIDSON ULTRA CLASSIC
Harley Road King Classic 2001 exhaust trooble shooting?
I have a Harley Davidson Road King classic 2001 that it has Magneti-Marelli FI. Only mods. are screaming eagle slip on mufflers, Arlen Ness big sucker2 air cleaner kit, and Arlen Ness big shot fuel tuner. I programed the tuner, seems to run best on the preset map settings already loaded. However, when I accelerate hard then let off and let motor idle down, every so often the exhaust pops. It is a loud pop, not the normal kackle. It is not a cough or sneeze through the breather. What could be causing this? I have tried the program in several modes but they all do this. Have also tried less fuel. I do not have an exhaust leek.
ACTUALLY.......exhaust backfire on decel can be caused by lean OR rich!!!!....USUALLY on injection, it's caused by rich (too much gas at 0% throttle position) , carbs by rich also ( high manifold vacuum pulling too much fuel through the idle ports), although, too lean can cause this also (lean mis-fire leading to raw fuel through the exhaust that get ignited by internal pipe heat and cold air from exhaust reversion hitting each other), it has alot to to with the total engine combination, exhaust length and diameter and cam overlap and igniton timing.
I don't mean to sound insulting, but you WASTED your money on the Ness Fuel controller, you SHOULD have gotten a Power Commander....ALWAYS go with products from a campany that SPECIALIZES in what they sell!!!....Power Commander III USB with Acellerator Pump Feature is the industry standard (for almost everything except HD Delphi, PC 5 with wide band O2 sensors for Delphi), even better, is HD's Super Tuner (for the newer Delphi System). With a Power Commander and a DYNO, you can dial in the injection PERFECTLY....with your situation, lean out the air/fuel ratio at 0% throttle from 1000-3000 rpm (approx, each engine is individual).
The best thing I can tell you to try is to lean out the LOW RANGE one step at a time until the exhausti popping stops. If it won't stop by leaning it out, you may have the rare case of actually being too lean as Adam said, try richening one step at a time....but I will lay odds on the fact that you are actually rich....HD's Super Tuner has a feature to lean out the a/f ratio at an already predetermined rpm range and throttle position, on the Power Commander, you have to manually change each cell of the map individually.
ALSO....EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!!........
In order for ANY adjustments to be CORRECT, you will HAVE to verify not only no exhuast leaks( as you state you don't have), you MUST verify no INTAKE leaks...AND....you MUST have the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR "ZEROED"!!!!!!!......unfortunately HD is the best place for the TPS....they can do it in a matter of a few minutes....it REQUIRES special equipment.